It's 4am on Nov. 22. We're making 6 knots on a beam reach. There are lots of stars out, and there's a cruise ship about 2mi east of us - lit up like a city!
This leg started out rather tough. We did several day hops in light wind, or with it on the nose. Not wanting to mess with fluky wind at night, we'd found places to anchor for the nights. Two nights ago we anchored off S. Isla Cedros in a spectacular little cove (that I'm not sure we would have attempted had it been daylight!). We had a great hike around the island in the morning and it was good to get off the boat and get a bit of exercise. The dingy trip to shore was really interesting, as there are several neat passages between large rock pillars with significant surge coursing thru, sometimes giving a height differential of about 5ft across a channel only 20ft or so wide. The "landing beach" was steep and didn't have any sand - we took awhile to decide on the spot with the most small (baseball sized) round rocks and timed the landing to come in on the back of a swell... then everyone out quick and haul it up the beach before the next wave arrives! I ended up with wet feet and pant legs (note to self - don't wear socks on dinghy excursions!) Getting off was the reverse, except we had gravity working for us. We piled the kids in, and I took up the oars while sitting high and dry on the rocks. When the next big wave lifted the dinghy, Kellie gave a shove from the stern and hopped in... just like we knew what we were doing! The island had spectacular, rugged scenery including lots of rock arches with waves crashing under them. The local flora was reasonably friendly, and Marilyn was the only casualty with some cactus spikes stuck in her knee. The kids found lots of sea urchin shells and other treasures to haul back to the boat!
Last night we anchored just north of Punta Banda (the point just south of Ensenada) seeking some relief from the W swell. We'd planned to stay there until some reliable wind filled in. In the morning the wind was piping up from the SW, but it was pouring rain... when the rain let up a bit we decided we couldn't let the wind go to waste. We hollered at Icarian that we were leaving and they said they'd be an hour or so behind. We smoked our way out of the bay ('nother note to self... when the though occurs that perhaps we should raise the main with a reef already tucked in... do it). We flew full main and the staysail and had the rail in the water, but made good progress. As we neared the end of Punta Banda the seas got bigger and bigger and were impeding progress. Rather than tacking back and forth to clear the point we used the motor to help out a bit. It was a relief to get around the corner and run off a bit. The seas remained really lumpy and steep (and coming from several directions), but we made 8kn more or less in the right direction. It's been awhile since we'be been heeled or slopped around and the cabin got pretty trashed (the locker with the art supplies came open, and some of the cans stowed behind the starboard settee kept escaping - good thing we don't have a show-quality cabin sole! Ellie and I each made use of the bucket a couple times - a first for me. I should have taken seasick meds when I first woke up... but we didn't know we were leaving then. We had a great ride for about 3-4 hours with plenty of wind to steady us against the swell, and made 7-9kn with a max speed of over 13! Icarian just missed it, because when they rounded the point they only had about 10kn of wind and were getting slopped around quite a bit. It's crazy how localized some of the weather sytems are.
The swell sorted itself out a bit just before dark, and we've been on a reasonably comfortable beam reach all night - the windvane is doing a great job of steering, and it's been hours since we've made any adjustments to course or sail trim. We're heading a bit west of our course, but we're making better speed and it's definitely more comfortable. It's amazing what a difference 10 or 15 degrees makes - we're going about 3kn faster and the sails are staying full (not flopping due to the waves) compared to if we aimed straight for Turtle Bay. Roll the dice and hope the wind clocks around a bit later...
The other boats we've been hanging out with are spread out all along the coast - Loon III, Nanoo and Homers Odessy should all have arrived in Turtle bay throughout the night. Wyndeavor is still in San Diego waiting for their computer to get fixed, and a couple boats have already left Turtle Bay for Cabo and La Paz. Christmas plans seem to be driving several boats along - like meeting family in Puerto Vallarta. We've been keeping in touch with the others over the HF radio (Marine Single Sideband) each morning, and it's fun to track each other's progress. We're running a bit behind the pack because we'd rather sail than motor. We got an e-mail from some new friends on Kanaloa (we'd met in Santa Barbara) that are already in La Paz - they report it's warm and their kids are swimming and snorkeling around the anchorage... we can't wait! I'm wearing two pairs of fleece pants, a t-shirt, sweatshirt, fleece vest, fleece jacket, fleece hat and gloves, and wrapped in a blanket - and I'm still chilly!