one year anniversary-Sept 2

Pete and I left Bellingham one year ago today, in much the same weather we're experiencing here. It's grey and blowing like crazy. However, the air temp is in the high 70's unlike Bellingham where I seem to remember it being in the 50's.

The people here on Palmerston have welcomed us heartily. They are happy to have their supplies delivered and interested in talking to some new people. Last year 67 yachts visited here in the cruising season and virtually no one else. Ships do not make a regular stop here, so they only have supplies delivered or picked up every 5 months or longer. The economy here is based mostly on government money. Several islanders are government employees including an island secretary, police officer, 3 teachers. One private company has a business here for telecommunications including phone, radio and internet. There are no stores, restaurants or any other businesses.

A two room school accommodates 25 students ranging in age from 5 to 13. Due to the difficulty of keeping a permanent teacher on the island, a home school program has been implemented. At the moment one certified teacher is employed and 2 local women. If no teacher is available, any parent can fill in and keep the program going. Many islanders don't read and the rest have no more than a junior high education. Over the last 100 years, gaps of up to 8 years have occurred in the education system. The school gets government money to buy limited supplies, but getting them here is almost impossible. They rely on a copy machine to make worksheets and it has been in Rarotonga since March being repaired. We tried to bring it, but the toner still hadn't come, so they will have to wait for another boat. Pete has offered to make as many copies as we can on our printer and is also scanning pages so they can make them on theirs. Cruisers can donate basic supplies, so we've scoured our extras (which are running low) and given a bag of paper, pencils, books and "prizes." The school also takes the responsibility of supplying the students with toothbrushes and paste, since most families don't have them. We were able to give enough supplies for the whole island thanks to a generous donation from our friends the Pattens.

Food runs short in between shipments, so they revert to their traditional foods like fish and coconuts. Virtually nothing grows in the salty sandy soil. Some villagers are making an effort to grow vegetables, but ultimately they would like to set up a hydroponic garden. They need $8,500 US to fund a big enough system to feed the whole island. The men net parrot fish to export, but since the ships don't stop here, they have no way to sell their catch to earn the money. Their government money from last year was used up on another island for cyclone relief.

When a cruiser arrives, a local family "hosts" them. The lagoon is difficult to navigate and the passes treacherous for our small dinghies so they ferry us daily to and from the island. They also organize meals and activities like volleyball. Today we're having an "umu" which is an underground oven cooked feast. We will provide meat, as they have no meat here, and they will bring fish. They have so little, we are trying not to impose on their generous hospitality.

The needs here are so overwhelming and the practicalities so difficult, that we are finding it frustrating to not be able to help more. Pete has been targeted as the fix it man, so he is overwhelmed with requests to fix computers, TV's, outboard engines and generators. I've cleaned out the food lockers so I can give our family anything extra. Yesterday I brought brownies to lunch, and they went crazy. I've made a chocolate cake today to thank her for offering to do our laundry.

There is so much more to think about and tell here, I'll have to write several posts to give the full picture. We're off to shore now, Kellie