Where'd the wind go?
This passage has evolved to be longer than we'd planned - originally about 450 miles from Ua Pou to Manihi, but the wind and swell direction made it more comfortable to change course for Kauehi instead - 550 miles total. It'll actually be better, as we'll be able to sail somewhat downwind between the atolls working our way to Rangiroa.
After the first couple days making 7-8 knots, the wind has now nearly died and we're still 100 miles from our destination of Kauehi Atoll (sort of in the middle of the Tuamotus). We just did a "fly-by" of Tikei island (S14 58, W144 32) with hopes to stop for a bit of a rest. Tikei is an island, rather than an atoll, and there's no protection other than just being on the downwind side of it. I'd planned to drop anchor and back in and stern tie to the reef, but 'twas too deep within a boatlength! The sea floor comes up from about 2500 meters right to the surface. Makes for tough anchoring! We had to satisfy ourselves with a look along the NW side of the island - beautiful! As we rounded the end on our way away Kellie shouted she could see bottom so I hit reverse and looked at the depthsounder - 110ft and you could see the bottom clearly! The water is an unbelievable color of blue - kind of like looking into a bottle of blue dishwashing detergent.
We haven't had any luck catching fish on this passage, which would have added to the excitement, as well as the food reserves.
After motoring for about 6 hours mid-day, we're sailing again at 5kn on a beam reach with very light wind. If it keeps up, we'll make it to Kauehi for the high-slack tide at noon tomorrow (Wednesday?).
The kids and I have made it past the "first few passage day blahs" and have settled into groove. They're keeping themselves entertained now - Carter is paintingg a bright orange lobster, an Ellie is making a chick out of egg carton pieces.
-Pete
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